28 -- The Principles of Overshot Pattern Weaving

Use of Blocks of Design
We have learned how in the threading of the Twill there is a succession of the harnesses in regular order, such as harness 1, 2, 3, and 4, and repeat; and how in the Herringbone threading this succession is carried on for a certian number of repeats and then reversed, such as harnesses 1, 2, 3, (4), 3, and 2, and repeat.

In this lesson we will learn how to enlarge the short groups of threads that make up the Twill threading, such as harnesses 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 4, and 4 and 1, so as to form larger blocks of repeat. In this way we can plan patterns where the weft thread passes over more warp thread at a time than the two or three thread which form the short Twill overshot. The pattern spaces of the Diamond and other patterns presented here thus form more prominent blocks of design.

Overshot Pattern Weaving consists in weaving from that type of pattern draft in which the threadings of the harnesses form enlarged groups or blocks. When these harnesses are raised or lowered in groups, design spaces are formed through which the weft thread shows in set pattern formations.

Enlarging the Twill threading
For instance, in the diagram given in the regular Twill Pattern (see the dotted ovals in fig. 107 at C), our succession of small blocks is: harnesses 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 4, and 4 and 1. For the enlarged draft having this same succession of harnesses, i.e., the stepladder pattern in Figs. 115 and 116, enlarge each group of two harnesses fo four, as indicated by the dotted ovals in fig. 116. We then have: harnesses 1, 2, 1 ,2; harnesses 2, 3, 2 ,3; harnesses 3, 4, 3, 4; and harnesses 4, 1, 4, 1. These blocks form the units of the Overshot Pattern Weaving.