Comparison of Monk's Belt and Honeysuckle Patterns
TWO PATTERNS that give attractive results when woven are the Monk's Belt Pattern and the Honeysuckle Pattern. The Monk's Belt produces small conventional blocks in tailored effect; the Honeysuckle weaves into borders or an all-over surface texture with graceful curving lines. These two pattern are simple and short, easy to thread, and very popular and useful. In this lesson and the next, we will give the plan for each of the patterns with several adaptations.
Characteristics of the Monk's Belt Pattern Written on Opposites
The Monk's Belt is one of the oldest and simplest of pattern threadings; it was know far back in olden times and has been preserved for us in the weaving of northern Europe. Its name is very suitable for, when the pattern is repeated, it makes long rows of square motifs that fit into a belt width. In Fig. 119 is shown a table mat woven in the Monk's Belt Pattern. The origin of this pattern may be connected with religious history, for it is made up of motifs resembling small crosses set between woven squares. The arrangement of these crosses may be altered at will. It is believed that this pattern was used for the girdles of the monks in European monasteries, the position of the crosses and the number of blocks between them designating the religious rank or attainment of the monk who made and wore the woven belt.
In modern days the Monk's Belt is popular because of its simple, clean-cut character and the ease with which it may be threaded and woven. It is a popular border pattern for drapes and hangings, runners, and towels, as well as for bright touches of color on aprons or smocks. It belongs to the family of Patch Patterns which are composed of contrasting motifs of square blocks said to be "on opposites." Other good pattern in this family are: Window Sash, Four O'Clock, The Waterfall, Youth, and Beauty.* The patterns of this group are more adaptable to modern decoration than to Colonial furnishings. The contrasting squares in the Monk's Belt and similar patterns result from the way the pattern is constructed. As indicated in Fig. 120, the blocks are written "on opposites," a block on harness 1 and 2 is followed by a block on the opposite harnesses, 3 and 4; the 2 and 3 block is followed by the 4 and 1 block; the 3 and 4 block is followed by the 1 and 2 block; and the 4 and 1 block is followed by the 2 and 3 block. In the Monks' Belt Pattern given in Fig. 120, only blocks 1 and 2 and blocks 3 and 4 are used. In some other patterns on opposites, one finds blocks 2 and 3 and blocks 4 and 1 as well. Note that there are no adjacent harness notes between the blocks; but, when each block, such as (1,2,1,2), is finished, the draft goes directly to two new harness notes, as block (3,4,3,4), instead of adding one new note only. If an adjacent pattern were being written at this point, the next block after block (1,2,1,2) would add new harness 3 only and would retain harness 2; it would then become block (2,3,2,3).
Weaving on Opposites
In the method of weaving known as Weaving on Opposites, any two opposite pairs of harnesses may be used in alternation. Thus, harnesses 1 and 2 may be followed by harnesses 3 and 4; harnesses 2 and 3 may be followed by harnesses 4 and 1; harnesses 3 and 4 may be followed by harness 1 and 2; and harnesses 4 and 1 may be followed by harnesses 2 and 3. One may also weave any one harness alone and follow this with the other three harnesses woven together; thus, harness 1 alone may be followed by harnesses 2, 3, and 4, or vice versa, and so on. One may follow each Pattern row by a row of Tabby; or one may omit the Tabby altogether, for the two opposite treadlings of themselves hold the alternate rows firmly in place. This method of weaving on opposites without Tabby is sometimes used very successfully for rugs or mats. An example of textured drapery material woven in this way is shown in Fig. 47, fabric second from left.
One must be sure, in the use of the term "on opposites," to designate whether one means threading a draft on opposites or weaving on opposites. The Monk's Belt Pattern is a draft on opposites and is best woven by using the same two combinations as its two opposite blocks, i.e. harnesses 1 and 2 and harnesses 3 and 4. If the other two harness combinations of the Monk's Belt threading are used in alternation without Tabby, a fabric with a very interesting texture results. The weaving becomes: Use harnesses 2 and 3, followed by harnesses 4 and 1; repeat with one row of each combination, using a fine thread of the same size as the warp.
The weaver therefore finds that there are many interesting ways of weaving any pattern threading. He has now learned how to weave a pattern twill-fashion, as-drawn-in, on opposites, with or without Tabby, and also with any succession of harnesses desired to produce creative textures.
Checkerboard Overshot, a Useful Weave on Opposites
This weave is a pattern on two opposite blocks, similar to the Monk's Belt but even simpler, with both kinds of little blocks just the same size and alternating regularly to make small squares of pattern. It is adaptable to borders for doilies, towels, handkerchief cases, purses, book jackets, etc., as well as to narrow bands for upholstery edges, tie-backs for curtains, belts and sandal straps. Woven as a solid all-over pattern surface, it is excellent for chair coverings, upholstery, pillows, screen covers, bags and purses. The pattern may be made into columns of color by weaving harness 1 and 2 with one color and harnesses 3 and 4 with another color.
Threading: Harnesses 1,2,1,2,3,4,3,4, and repeat.
Weaving: Use a Pattern weft and a Tabby weft. Follow each row of Pattern with a row of Tabby.
Weave harnesses 1 and 2, followed by Tabby. Repeat as desired, preferably to form small square blocks.
Weave harness 3 and 4. Repeat as desired, preferably to form small square blocks.
Alternate these two blocks as desired.
One can also omit the tabby and weave with two wefts of different colors, as follows: Weave harnesses 1 and 2 with one color, and then weave harnesses 3 and 4 with the second color. Alternate the harness combinations.
Making a Modern Belt in the Monk's Belt Pattern
*See Shuttlecraft Book of American Hand Weaving, by Atwater, p. 195-197.
Notes:
I'm starting a study of the Monk's Belt pattern. I thought I would start with this classic weaving book.
First Sampler:
Treadling Combinations to Try:
Number 1: Weaving on Opposites (applies to all threadings)
1,2 followed by 3,4
2,3 followed by 4,1
3,4 followed by 1,2
4,1 followed by 2,3
Number 2:
1 followed by 2,3,4
2 followed by 1,3,4
3 followed by 1,2,4
4 followed by 1,2,3
Monk's Belt is a draft on opposites and is best woven by using the same two combinations as its two opposite blocks, i.e. harnesses 1 and 2 and harnesses 3 and 4. Try these treadling with any Monk's Belt threading.
Number 3:
1,2 followed by tabby 1,3 (Pattern weft thicker than warp.)
3,4 followed by tabby 2,4 (Tabby weft same thickness as warp.)
Repeat each pattern shot to square.
Number 4:
1,2 followed by 3,4
If the other two harness combinations of the Monk's Belt threading are used in alternation without Tabby, a fabric with a very interesting texture results.
Number 5:
2,3 followed by 4,1 and repeat. (Use a fine thread of the same size as the warp or thicker.)
Checkerboard Overshot, a Useful Weave on Opposites
This weave is a pattern on two opposite blocks, similar to Monk's Belt but even simpler, with both kinds of little blocks just the same size and alternating regularly to make small squares of pattern. This is the threading I used for the first sampler.
From Top to Bottom:
1. Checkerboard Number 3
2. Number 2
3. Number 3
4. Just a regular twill threading.
5. Number 5
6. Number 5
7. Number 4, but with Tabby
8. Number 4
9. Checkerboard, Number 3
Here's some links to some cool weaving on the net:
http://www.interweave.com/weave/projects_articles/9-07_HipHandwoven.pdf
http://www.interweave.com/weave/projects_articles/bamboo_blanket.pdf
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/periodicals/hwn_38_08.pdf
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